Western Hognose Care
This page provides information and advice on how to care for and keep your western hognose happy and healthy.
Housing
Western hognose snakes are very small when they are young. The best way to house a baby is in a plastic tub with a secure lid. Use a small drill bit to make ventilation holes in the sides (Really Useful Boxes - RUBs are a great choice). Paper towels, lignocel or aspen can be used as substrate. Provide a hide, a water bowl, and enrichment in the form of fake plants, cork bark, a stone, toilet roll tube etc. A small tub containing damp moss or orchid bark can be used to aid the shedding process.
Adults can be variable in size. Males are smaller than females and will be happy in a 3ft vivarium. Larger females are best in a 4ft vivarium. Substrate can be aspen, lignocel or a mix of soil and sand. Provide a deep layer of substrate as they like to dig and burrow. A large water bowl should be provided, as well as 2 hides and enrichment. These snakes can be shy and need plenty of cover to feel safe.
Humidity
Hognose snakes don't require a high level of humidity. Around 35/40% air humidity is good. This level of humidity is often where homes are in the UK which is great!
A large water bowl should be provided at all times for drinking, bathing and to keep the air humidity at the correct level.
Additional humidity can be provided when snakes are shedding by providing a humid hide/box containing damp (not wet) moss, soil, or orchid bark.
Feeding
Hognose snakes eat rodents in captivity. Babies can be challenging to feed, especially when they move to a new environment. They may refuse food for several weeks. Avoid handling until feeding is established. Ensure you are providing the correct enclosure temperatures as well as plenty of places to hide.
Babies should be fed every 4/5 days with a defrosted pinky mouse. This can be dipped in calcium or multivitamin powder. Juveniles can move up to defrosted mouse fuzzies, and adults can be fed defrosted hoppers, small, or medium mice (depending on snake size). Adults are usually fed weekly.
Shedding
Snakes shed in one complete skin, unlike other reptiles who shed in pieces. The humidity level must be correct to ensure a complete shed. Stuck shed can cause problems, particularly if on the eyes and will need to be removed.
A humid hide/box should be provided when snakes show signs of shedding (becoming 'frosty' in colour, eyes turning cloudy/blue). Use an appropriate sized box. An empty plastic chocolate tub with a hole cut out of the top is a good option for adults. Half fill with damp moss, soil or orchid bark.
Snakes may not eat when ready to shed, this is normal.
Lighting
Western hognose are best kept on a 12 hour on/off lighting cycle. The best way to do this is to use an LED strip or bar plugged into a smart plug/or timer. Avoid lamps that produce heat.
UV lighting can be used if you choose to, ensure you use a low level bulb no higher than 7%.
Heating
Western hognose snakes require heated enclosures. Heat can be provided via a heat mat covering a third of the bottom of the enclosure and plugged into a thermostat. One side of the enclosure should be the warm side of the enclosure, and the opposite side the cooler side. The warm side should have a temperature of around 30/31 degrees celsius, and the cooler side around 25. Use digital thermometers to monitor the temperatures of both sides and ensure the temperature gradient is suitable. A digital heat gun is a very useful tool for checking temperatures.
Overhead heating can also be used in a vivarium setting. Ceramic heat emitters and deep heat projectors are good options, again plugged into a thermostat. Always ensure that these options are fitted inside a cage guard to prevent accidental burns to the snake.